from the wooden O to the fires on the hill
History · Mystery · Whisky · Witchery
Fourteen days, three countries, one ancient fire. Four women travel from Saint-Malo's ramparts through London's wooden O and the weathered glens of the Highlands, to stand inside the oldest night on the calendar — Samhain, kept in Edinburgh as it has been for nearly three thousand years.
Every Pas Perdu journey begins the same way: someone goes first, with intention. This is that trip — a working expedition through Brittany, London, the Highlands, Perthshire, and Edinburgh, walking the ground of journeys to come. The standing stones and the whisky, the buried closes and the theatre, the castle at three lochs and the valley that keeps its own weather.
We travel it the way we build everything: history first, then the immersion. Understand a place before you stand in it, and the standing becomes something else entirely.
London opens it — the wooden O, the ribboned gate of the outcast dead, a cabaret in a mirrored room — then the night train north into the glens. The journey’s French prologue, Saint-Malo to the Bayeux thread, keeps its own page: the Sea Gates expedition.
A two o’clock matinee at the Globe — standing in the borough where theatre survived by being banished — then high tea at the Swan at five, watching the sun set over the Thames. Bankside, Borough Market, and a graveyard of ribbons most of London walks past.
Our Friday table at McNally’s brasserie turned out to sit inside the Kit Kat Club takeover — Cabaret’s cast singing through the mirrored room on one of the last two nights it exists. The Globe gives us ‘all the world’s a stage’ at two; the Kit Kat Club answers ‘life is a cabaret’ at eight. Not planned. Put in the path.
Three nights on Loch Linnhe between Glencoe and Ben Nevis. Low cloud, amber grasses, weather moving through every fifteen minutes — a place where doing very little still feels like witnessing something.
Clava Cairns, aligned on the midwinter sun four thousand years ago, five minutes from the moor at Culloden where a whole world ended. Gray skies make it what it was. We pray for gloom.
Eilean Donan — bombarded to rubble in 1719, rebuilt by hand over thirty years, and quietly the most photographed argument in Scotland for going the long way around.
Edinburgh, stacked on its own past — a sealed street beneath the Royal Mile, Viking-age silver on Chambers Street, dinner in a 1595 merchant’s house by the castle — and then the reason for the dates: on October 31st, the Samhuinn Fire Festival, torchlight and drums through the dark as the Summer King falls to the Winter King. The oldest night on the calendar, and we stand inside it.
Deliberately unhurried. The memorable parts of a journey are usually the moments between destinations — the itinerary leaves room for them.
Founder of Pas Perdu, traveling the way the company thinks: history first, notebook always open, tarot deck packed for the fires, every find feeding the journeys to come.
The travel-buddy of France, Portugal, and now Britain — the one who makes the days easier and the conversations more interesting, sea to fire and every mile between.
Journalist, actress, student of culture — Pas Perdu's own guide from the Bosphorus, who reads your fortune in the coffee grounds, the Turkish way, traveling to meet 3 magical sisters from half across the globe, all to stand at the fires of the oldest new year.
One seat at the fires stands open — a woman with the right spirit for the north, the stones, the whisky, and the oldest new year. By invitation.
Samhain is nearly three thousand years old — the Celtic new year, the night the veil thins, the fire festival that Christianity renamed but never extinguished. Edinburgh keeps it with torchlight and drums at the Samhuinn Fire Festival, and this year we keep it too: the Galloway Hoard by daylight, the fires by dark, and dinner the night before at a 1595 merchant's house on Castlehill — steps from a small fountain raised to the hundreds who died there in less forgiving centuries.
Samhuinn 2026 is a founders' expedition — the reconnaissance behind the journeys Pas Perdu will offer next. If you're traveling with us, your door is already open: watch your email for a letter from Sebastian. And if the fires call to you for another year — the scouts go first, so that you can follow.
Discover Pas Perdu